It is so beautiful that 'beautiful' alone does not cover it. Its vastness and its stillness gave me a feeling of going back to something I had lost. I cannot find the right words — Shangri-La, in Tibetan, means 'the sun and moon in the heart'.
Traveller note — 'Footprints in the Clouds: Yunnan's West'
On the drive you pass Tibetan houses, square and grand, with flags on the roof: one flag for an ordinary Buddhist household, two for a family of standing, and three for a house that has produced a living Buddha.
Traveller note — 'Into Shangri-La: A Pilgrimage in the Clouds'
Shangri-La is a name borrowed from a 1933 novel, James Hilton's Lost Horizon, and pinned onto a real town in 2001 — and for once the marketing holds up. At about 3,300 m, this is true Tibetan highland: white houses with painted eaves, yaks on the grassland, a great monastery across the valley, and air so clean and thin that the whole quality of the light changes.
The town itself, Dukezong, is a Tibetan old town on the old tea-horse road, its stone lanes looping up a small hill to a 21 m gilded prayer wheel — the largest of its kind, and heavy enough that visitors are invited to help turn it clockwise for good fortune. Fire damaged part of the old town in January 2014 and it has been rebuilt; the rhythm of daily life has since shifted to the streets of the new town around it, but the atmosphere survives.
Across the valley stands Songzanlin, the 'little Potala', the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan, founded in 1679 and still home to hundreds of monks. Beyond it is the plateau's real landscape: Pudacuo National Park with two lakes and old-growth forest, and the Napa Lake grassland, which floods in summer and dries to pasture by winter, with Shika Snow Mountain behind it.
Deeper into Diqing, the road west runs four hours to Deqin and the Meili Snow Mountain range, whose peak Kawagebo has never been summited. The sunrise over its summits — the 'golden mountain' — is the sacred sight of the region, and the reason a lot of people come this far at all.